ceej
Administrator 
im back.... :)
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Post by ceej on Sept 27, 2008 17:15:00 GMT
I am fed up with it being so complicated!! Not only do you need to worm for the right worms at the right time of year, but you need to alternate the active ingredients for each set of worms so resistance doesnt build up (i realise I have not doen this enough as I pretty much always use equest or equest promax  ). I got well cuffufled so I have done a spreadsheet (how sad) that lays out the wormer, their active ingredients and what worm they cover. then a rough planner for the year of the worms and when...so all I (and you) have to do is check the time of year and chose a wormer that does the required worms but has a different active ingredient than last time.... I hope it will help. Now all I need to do is work out how to get an excel spreadsheet on here?!! ok modified to include table now I worked it out!! Hope it makes sense and helps... ;D By way of assistance (sorry if this is obvious) but the main worms to be concerned with are: Tapeworm (3 species) Roundworm Redworm (3 stages - large redworm are in the gut before passing and are therefore reletively easy to kill - small are in the gut and are also encysted (buried larvea in the organs and walls of the stomach etc)...only two wormers deal with encysted. Bots The other worms present but not life threatening are the others such as pinworm  |
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Post by aimee on Sept 27, 2008 17:17:46 GMT
Oh yes very complicated. I'm lucky I just leave all the hard work to YO. All we have to do is give her the money when she has ordered the relevant bulk of pastes in.  |
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Post by aimee on Sept 27, 2008 17:22:48 GMT
Oh if you want to put a spreadsheet on here, the only way I can think of doing it is by the print screen button then usual photobucket!
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ceej
Administrator
im back.... :)
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Post by ceej on Sept 27, 2008 17:34:12 GMT
print screen? Talk me through Im thick....!!
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Post by racaille on Sept 27, 2008 17:57:02 GMT
Blimey, I'm full of admiration - I just leave it to the vet! On the other hand, it's so dry here that worms and larvae etc do not live on in the paddocks, it all dries up very fast and there is no grass for the little blighters to cling to.
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haffyfan
Administrator
is pressing random buttons...sorry guys
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Post by haffyfan on Sept 27, 2008 18:04:03 GMT
Like Aimee suggests do a screen shot. Hold down ctrl (or it's possibly alt I can never remember) and the button in the top left that says prt scr/sysRq. Basically this copies the screen although it looks like nothing has happened. I then have to right click and paste this into an email then save the email image as a jpeg but your system may let you save it as a jpeg without the email bit (I don't have word only a crappy works suite on this pc). Then upload the jpeg onto photobucket and paste on here. I couldn't fatham out the table thingy either although there is an option to make one.
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ceej
Administrator
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Post by ceej on Sept 27, 2008 20:22:44 GMT
struggling with this bit how'd you do that then?
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ceej
Administrator
im back.... :)
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Post by ceej on Sept 27, 2008 21:20:33 GMT
ok may have done it by prt sc and pasting into PAINT (!) and save that as Jpeg ;D lets see  |
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ceej
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Post by ceej on Sept 27, 2008 22:24:41 GMT
oooh its tini weeny..ang on
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Post by Maes Seren on Sept 28, 2008 10:48:15 GMT
Just to add to this, its better to over dose than under dose as an underdose will only cause resistance, it wont fight the parasites. Also resistance is caused by worming too frequently, and you should use a forward rotation of wormers over a 3 year programme. Every drug has a CI (chemotherapeutic index) which is calculated - CI = Maximum tolerated dose Curative dose If the CI is high, its the least toxic to the horse. Want to aviod organophosphates as much as possible. Benzimidazoles (fenbendazole/panacur etc) have a CI of 50 - 100 which is high so overdose is very unlikely. Pyrimidines (pyrantel embonate/strongid p etc) have a CI of 20 which is relatively safe. Avermectins (ivermectin/eqvalan etc) have a CI index of 10 which is a low safety margin. I did an assignment on parasites, did quite well on it last year ;D all this info btw comes from journals, so its proven info.  |
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Post by maximum on Sept 28, 2008 19:20:31 GMT
see I dont bother! worm for Tapeworms and bots and otherwise if the eggcount is zero I dont worm. this is on the vets advice.
Ceej - I am speechless with admiration at that! its amazing.
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ceej
Administrator
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Post by ceej on Sept 28, 2008 21:14:24 GMT
mea..whodomawhatnow?   apart from you said, is my chart ok then - you are in a better position to judge it - its only my interpretation of all the dross! Maxie...thanks - I do think 'sad' fits the description best!! Your programme wont take account of encysyted redworms though - they dont show up in worm count, so you may want to adda yearly dose for that... |
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jane
Novice Willy Washer
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Post by jane on Sept 28, 2008 22:16:52 GMT
Hi Ceej
Fantastic chart, thank you very much... I am doing a copy for future reference.
jane
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joandlad
Apprentice Poo Picker
My beautiful boy!
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Post by joandlad on Sept 29, 2008 8:54:11 GMT
I got so fed up with having to organise the worming programmes of the other two owners/horses that Murph goes out with that I've just persuaded them to sign up to Intelligent Worming. £89 (cheaper for ponies) for worm counts & wormer for tapeworm and encysted redworm for a year. They send eveything direct to you in the post so you don't have to sit counting the weeks on calendars or working out what wormer to use when. Lazy, but one less thing for me to do.
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Post by duckles on Sept 29, 2008 10:42:19 GMT
Ceej- that is really brilliant. thanks, i intend to print out and keep. I have a 3 year worming plan which i have been using for 5 years. You change the wormers (ie equest or panacur etc) so that resistance is not built up - at least that's the theory. But i just got it from a friend, i only had the vaguest idea what worms i was protecting against. I think your chart is very clear and really helpful. I know some people don't worm at all- actually quite a lot of people i know (and they don't do worm counts either) but i wouldn't risk it as the paddocks my horses are on are never picked and are quite over grazed and poached.
I use an easy wormer with the paste as the horses hate the taste. I have often been laughed at for using the easy wormer but i think its wonderful
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haffyfan
Administrator
is pressing random buttons...sorry guys
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Post by haffyfan on Sept 29, 2008 19:47:45 GMT
Can I just add a little personal thought/opinion to this. Verm X is CRAP  ...murph thinks it's poison and won't go within about 6ft of his bucket, Harry's not keen (and eats anything so it must be bad) and since I have used it both mine have returned medium worm counts so a total waste of money (saying that Murph didn't actually eat any after the first day). I always used Wendalls Easy verm (very palatable and worked a treat- always less than 50 eggs per gram count - no eggs seen -the best my company will give) but can no longer get hold of it (bar the out of date ones currently on ebay  !!) so I wouldn't recommend it personally although they tend to monopolise the market for herbal wormers. |
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). 
apart from you said, is my chart ok then - you are in a better position to judge it - its only my interpretation of all the dross!
...murph thinks it's poison and won't go within about 6ft of his bucket, Harry's not keen (and eats anything so it must be bad) and since I have used it both mine have returned medium worm counts so a total waste of money (saying that Murph didn't actually eat any after the first day). 
!!) so I wouldn't recommend it personally although they tend to monopolise the market for herbal wormers.